Chief was coaching a stunt man for a role in an upcoming Hollywood surf action film.
The Chief told him: Before you 'hang um ten', first getum good practice 'hang um five'.
Put your ear to the ground to hear the message of a distant swell as it builds and moves your way. These conditions are the 'stuff of dreams' for every soul and contest surfer alike.
Porthleven is one of Britain's best reef breaks. Beauty - because it breaks with machine-gun like precision over a shallow flat rock ledge. The Beast - because it's power can mean costly mistakes. Trust the Chief on this one.
Lifeguards, photographers and contest directors prefer beach buggies to get around the beach. Sometimes Chief gives them a ride to avoid the crowds. Hop on for a little cruise!
Don't laugh, it happens to everyone... that first surf lesson, or first surf contest
might not go so perfect... but that's how young surfers learn. Crank it up band and go for it junior!
Where ever there's good waves, there's usually a beach bully hanging around.
Chief sez: Feed beach bully plenty peanuts and popcorn. Pretty soon they too busy to bully!
Chief mixes up some original 'sonic tonic' in this collaboration with friends from far off shores...
very far off. The Chief is planning to drum up plenty more "halibaloo" in other places too!
The Chief advised his son to get out there and 'tame a wild horse'. Loosely translated, he meant
to seize the day. Chief sez: When you've seized the day, you've conquered it!
One of Chief's favorite secret surf spots. Ancient, unspoiled, pristine and always an adventure!
The Mustang Beach trail path is still the only way to get there. Chief sez: Hike in early for a good dawn patrol session!
To become a world class competitive surfer is a major grind, even for the most aggressive young athletes. You'll have to "give it all you've got". Chief sez: If you can't handle the heat, get out of the soup!
